I often see chicken owners online questioning if they have a broody hen and if they do, what to do about it. There are a few options depending on your desire or lack there of to have baby chicks. (There is a short list of broody behaviors at the bottom of the post.)
For people that live in an area where the number of chickens you can have is greatly restricted and it is unlikely you have a rooster, breaking a broody hen is probably the best solution. To break a hen from being broody you must remove her from the nest (sometimes no small task) and place her into a separate area (ideally a med size dog cage is best). There should be no bedding material in the cage to keep her from making another nest. Food and water should obviously be provided. If you have a secure place for her to get outside every day for a few hours without the possibility of her running off and creating a new nest, that exercise will do her some good. It can sometimes take a few weeks to break a broody so stick with it. She may or may not lay during this period.
For folks that have a rooster and wouldn't mind having some adorable balls of fluff roaming around, by all means let your chicken sit on a clutch of eggs. It is best once you have confirmed that you have a broody hen that you separate her to her own space. Sometimes this involves moving the nest. Putting the hen and her nest into a med - large dog crate or cage is acceptable if you don't have a spare coop or area within your coop to provide her with the privacy she needs. Remember to provide her with fresh food and water and give her the opportunity to get out and stretch her legs every day. Typically in 21 days you should have chicks! If for some reason after 25 days there are no peeps (chicks poking through the egg) it is unlikely any will hatch and its time to remove her and discard the eggs to allow her to get back into a regular routine. If you want to find out if she is sitting on fertile eggs you can candle them. For more info on "candling" check here: https://poultrykeeper.com/incubating-and-hatching-eggs/candling-eggs/
Finally, for people like myself that no longer have a Rooster but would like a broody hen to have chicks you can use 1 of 2 methods. You can inquire with friends or folks online if they have any fertilized eggs they're willing to sell or give to you and then place them under your hen OR you can try to sneak a few baby chicks under your hen at night. The first method usually works well, the second method is not always successful. I tried the second method and while fortunately my broody didn't hurt the chicks, she wanted nothing to do with them, so I'm raising 4 baby chicks AND my broody is sitting on acquired eggs.
Personally I take the natural route, or maybe we could call it the "lazy" route. I do not candle the eggs. I section off the broody to her own space in the coop and allow her to do things naturally. If she wants to get outside to run around I let her and if she is sitting I leave her alone. If there is no sign of babies after 25 days I will candle the eggs just to make sure and then dispose of them and let her back into the flock.
As with everything else in chicken husbandry there are multiple methods. If you have a broody, do your research and pick which method works best for you and your flock.
Broody Behaviors:
>Some hens will pluck their feathers and line the nest
>The hen doesn't want to leave the nest and will be in the nest most of the day
>The hen will become defensive if another chicken or a person approaches the nest
(Do not confuse broodiness with illness, a broody hen will not appear ill - her eyes will be bright and alert, she will be active and otherwise act normally. If your hen is droopy, appears very tired and/or isn't alert it may be a sign of illness)
La-La Land Eggs is a blog about my small homestead where I raise a flock of chickens a few cats and a couple of dogs.
Friday, August 19, 2016
Friday, July 1, 2016
Predator Paranoia and Coop Construction
Almost every Chicken Keeper is concerned about predators. Lets face it, chickens are at the bottom of the food chain, master only of bugs, earthworms and the occasional mouse. When I made the decision to keep chickens I did a hefty amount of research on how to make a fortress out of an existing shed/workshop on my property. The building itself is a sturdy 2x4 construction with a flat, slanted and singled roof and a 2 part, very large door. Before I purchased my chicks I spent some time considering what needed to be improved on the building. Here are things you always want to look for if you're modifying an existing structure into a coop:
1. Flooring - is it wood? dirt? something else?
2. Foundation - what is it? is there space under the structure?
3. Walls - what are they made of? are they insulated?
4. Windows - are there windows? are they secure? are they old or newer double pane?
5. Doors - how will the chickens enter and exit? How will you enter and exit?
6. Roof - what is it made of? is it leaking?
7. Location - where is your structure? Is it in a low lying, potentially flood prone area? does it get hot sun all day in the summer?
8. Size - how many chickens will it hold comfortably?
9. Ventilation - does it have adequate ventilation for chickens and if not, how will you add it?
This will be a long post - but hopefully the information will be helpful. I'll cover each of the 9 items above, individually below. The dimensions of my structure: aprox: 8ft deep by 12ft wide - the slopping roof is 12ft high in the front and 6ft high in the back.
1. Flooring: The flooring of my structure was 2x4 with plywood over top. In order to keep the plywood from getting nasty from spilled water or chicken poo I went to Home Depot and purchased the cheapest 12" square sticky vinyl floor tiles I could find and some additional adhesive. I covered the floor with a thin layer of the adhesive and secured the tiles. For bedding I use pine shavings.
2. Foundation: The foundation was not secure. The structure was on a slight decline so the builder had built the foundation on the ground on one end and the other end sat up on broken pieces of cinder blocks. :( On the end that was on the ground I dug out dirt around the foundation and laid bricks under it to stabilize it. On the end that was on cinderblocks I added more blocks every few feet to prevent any future sagging. Once stabilized I stuffed a ton of extra Styrofoam I had left over from my move under the building and then used 1 x 8s (cut to size) to block off any open spaces. I screwed these in with 3" building screws.
3. Walls: The walls were standard plywood (with wood paneling on the exterior), with insulation and then drywall - the drywall had not be painted or finished - it was just nailed in. To keep the drywall from getting messy I tacked up heavy duty plastic sheeting - this didn't work well and it continues to fall down - I should've used adhesive and will have to go back and redo this soon. I only used the plastic sheeting for the bottom 4' of the walls.
4. Windows: There are 2 windows, one is a 3x4' side sliding window, the other is a smaller window that you lift to open. Both are double pane - the larger windows inner most pane is broken. I used hardware cloth to secure the outside of both windows. (If you use heavy washers under each of the screws the hardware cloth will be very difficult to remove or break through) I did the same treatment to the inside of the big window but left the little window accessible from the inside so I could open it for added ventilation if necessary.
5. Doors: The door on my structure is a 2 part hinged door. I can either open a more standard sized door that is actually almost as tall as the structure or I can remove a large pin and open almost the entire front of the building. This is GREAT for cleaning out the coop!! Unless cleaning the coop, I only open the smaller door. It is plenty large enough for me to walk in and out while carrying food or water or chickens etc. I would recommend always having a human sized door on your coop for easy access. The doors are not insulated and are also 2x4 construction with plywood and wood paneling on the exterior. I installed 2 heavy gauge wrought iron locks that I "lock" with carabiners.
6. Roof: The roof is standard singles over tar paper and plywood. Much of the interior of the roof is insulated.
7. Location: My structure was perfectly located about 20 - 30 feet from my house (in direct view of my bedroom window). It receives shade most of the day but still gets some good sun in the winter. One window faces east, the other west. I did discover after a few seasons that the area by the door became muddy if there was extensive rain, so I dug away a few inches of dirt and laid paving stones in that area too keep it dryer.
8. Size: Size of coop is a huge factor in how many chickens you can have. My coop is currently, comfortably holding 10 adult chickens and 8 pullets. 4 - 5 of the pullets are cockerels (roosters) so they will not be part of the flock soon. I'll have about 14 chickens in this coop and could potentially hold up to 20. I would not want to exceed 20 adult chickens.
9. Ventilation: My structure had a 10" diameter hole on the east facing wall close to the roofline. This was put there I'm assuming to add a small wood burning fire place. I left that opening and secured it with hardware cloth on the outside. There was also a 3" in diameter opening near the base of one of the doors. I secured hardware cloth to that as well and then covered it completely from the inside to avoid cold floor drafts in the winter. Since I live in a dry, cooler climate I didn't add additional ventilation. Were I in a humid or hotter climate, I would've added an additional 10" ventilation hole by the roofline on each wall. (for perspective, in the summer months the average temp is 75 during the day and 55 at night and average winter temps are 20 - 30 during the day and sometimes well below zero at night. I do not heat my coop)
After I completed all the updating I purchased a solar security slight and mounted it near the door - if anything walks near the coop at night it shines brightly.
While my coop is now pretty secure, nothing - NOTHING is predator proof. I live where bears and mountain lions and fox and bobcats roam. During the day light hours my chickens are given free range to a 1/3 of an acre that is fenced in with 6' privacy fencing on one side and 5' wire fencing on the rest. It is not covered. I suppose I could cram them all in a smaller space that is covered and more secure but I understand the risks and have made the decision to accept them so they have the quality of life I think they should. For a bit of added protection I've put small porous stones with predator urine (found via Amazon.com) every 12 or so feet around the fence line. The chickens aren't allowed out in the morning until the sun has been up for 30 minutes and they're put to bed at sunset every night. No matter what precautions you take, you still run the risk of predator losses but by making your coop as secure as possible you can greatly reduce those risks.
A fewother thoughts: I used both a 2x4 and 2 large sapling trees (with the branches cut off) for roosts. They are at varying heights. I put a small chest freezer in the coop (no electricity) to keep the feed and treats and other chicken stuff away from rodents. I have fly sticky tape hanging from the highest portion of the ceiling in the summer. There are currently 3 nest boxes in different areas and I plan to add more and finally..... I created a wall inside and sectioned off an area for chicks or pullets that I'm introducing to the flock.
1. Flooring - is it wood? dirt? something else?
2. Foundation - what is it? is there space under the structure?
3. Walls - what are they made of? are they insulated?
4. Windows - are there windows? are they secure? are they old or newer double pane?
5. Doors - how will the chickens enter and exit? How will you enter and exit?
6. Roof - what is it made of? is it leaking?
7. Location - where is your structure? Is it in a low lying, potentially flood prone area? does it get hot sun all day in the summer?
8. Size - how many chickens will it hold comfortably?
9. Ventilation - does it have adequate ventilation for chickens and if not, how will you add it?
This will be a long post - but hopefully the information will be helpful. I'll cover each of the 9 items above, individually below. The dimensions of my structure: aprox: 8ft deep by 12ft wide - the slopping roof is 12ft high in the front and 6ft high in the back.
1. Flooring: The flooring of my structure was 2x4 with plywood over top. In order to keep the plywood from getting nasty from spilled water or chicken poo I went to Home Depot and purchased the cheapest 12" square sticky vinyl floor tiles I could find and some additional adhesive. I covered the floor with a thin layer of the adhesive and secured the tiles. For bedding I use pine shavings.
2. Foundation: The foundation was not secure. The structure was on a slight decline so the builder had built the foundation on the ground on one end and the other end sat up on broken pieces of cinder blocks. :( On the end that was on the ground I dug out dirt around the foundation and laid bricks under it to stabilize it. On the end that was on cinderblocks I added more blocks every few feet to prevent any future sagging. Once stabilized I stuffed a ton of extra Styrofoam I had left over from my move under the building and then used 1 x 8s (cut to size) to block off any open spaces. I screwed these in with 3" building screws.
3. Walls: The walls were standard plywood (with wood paneling on the exterior), with insulation and then drywall - the drywall had not be painted or finished - it was just nailed in. To keep the drywall from getting messy I tacked up heavy duty plastic sheeting - this didn't work well and it continues to fall down - I should've used adhesive and will have to go back and redo this soon. I only used the plastic sheeting for the bottom 4' of the walls.
4. Windows: There are 2 windows, one is a 3x4' side sliding window, the other is a smaller window that you lift to open. Both are double pane - the larger windows inner most pane is broken. I used hardware cloth to secure the outside of both windows. (If you use heavy washers under each of the screws the hardware cloth will be very difficult to remove or break through) I did the same treatment to the inside of the big window but left the little window accessible from the inside so I could open it for added ventilation if necessary.
5. Doors: The door on my structure is a 2 part hinged door. I can either open a more standard sized door that is actually almost as tall as the structure or I can remove a large pin and open almost the entire front of the building. This is GREAT for cleaning out the coop!! Unless cleaning the coop, I only open the smaller door. It is plenty large enough for me to walk in and out while carrying food or water or chickens etc. I would recommend always having a human sized door on your coop for easy access. The doors are not insulated and are also 2x4 construction with plywood and wood paneling on the exterior. I installed 2 heavy gauge wrought iron locks that I "lock" with carabiners.
6. Roof: The roof is standard singles over tar paper and plywood. Much of the interior of the roof is insulated.
7. Location: My structure was perfectly located about 20 - 30 feet from my house (in direct view of my bedroom window). It receives shade most of the day but still gets some good sun in the winter. One window faces east, the other west. I did discover after a few seasons that the area by the door became muddy if there was extensive rain, so I dug away a few inches of dirt and laid paving stones in that area too keep it dryer.
8. Size: Size of coop is a huge factor in how many chickens you can have. My coop is currently, comfortably holding 10 adult chickens and 8 pullets. 4 - 5 of the pullets are cockerels (roosters) so they will not be part of the flock soon. I'll have about 14 chickens in this coop and could potentially hold up to 20. I would not want to exceed 20 adult chickens.
9. Ventilation: My structure had a 10" diameter hole on the east facing wall close to the roofline. This was put there I'm assuming to add a small wood burning fire place. I left that opening and secured it with hardware cloth on the outside. There was also a 3" in diameter opening near the base of one of the doors. I secured hardware cloth to that as well and then covered it completely from the inside to avoid cold floor drafts in the winter. Since I live in a dry, cooler climate I didn't add additional ventilation. Were I in a humid or hotter climate, I would've added an additional 10" ventilation hole by the roofline on each wall. (for perspective, in the summer months the average temp is 75 during the day and 55 at night and average winter temps are 20 - 30 during the day and sometimes well below zero at night. I do not heat my coop)
After I completed all the updating I purchased a solar security slight and mounted it near the door - if anything walks near the coop at night it shines brightly.
While my coop is now pretty secure, nothing - NOTHING is predator proof. I live where bears and mountain lions and fox and bobcats roam. During the day light hours my chickens are given free range to a 1/3 of an acre that is fenced in with 6' privacy fencing on one side and 5' wire fencing on the rest. It is not covered. I suppose I could cram them all in a smaller space that is covered and more secure but I understand the risks and have made the decision to accept them so they have the quality of life I think they should. For a bit of added protection I've put small porous stones with predator urine (found via Amazon.com) every 12 or so feet around the fence line. The chickens aren't allowed out in the morning until the sun has been up for 30 minutes and they're put to bed at sunset every night. No matter what precautions you take, you still run the risk of predator losses but by making your coop as secure as possible you can greatly reduce those risks.
A fewother thoughts: I used both a 2x4 and 2 large sapling trees (with the branches cut off) for roosts. They are at varying heights. I put a small chest freezer in the coop (no electricity) to keep the feed and treats and other chicken stuff away from rodents. I have fly sticky tape hanging from the highest portion of the ceiling in the summer. There are currently 3 nest boxes in different areas and I plan to add more and finally..... I created a wall inside and sectioned off an area for chicks or pullets that I'm introducing to the flock.
Saturday, June 25, 2016
To Sell or Not To Sell - That Is The Question
Most chicken owners, I'd venture to guess, end up with more eggs than they know what to do with. One can only store, freeze and cook so many eggs.
That begs the question... what to do with so many extra eggs?
Sell them of course! If you're going to be selling dozens and dozens of eggs, its a good idea to start your own LLC and make sure you're claiming that income. You'll also need to get certified from the state or local government depending on your area's regulations.
If you're only selling a few dozen here or there, consider it a little extra income to help you afford all the feed for your flock. (please consult a CPA regarding tax laws etc)
I have enough extra eggs to give away a few dozen here or there to my lovely neighbors who put up with Cadbury's (my rooster) crowing, but come fall when the 8 new pullets I purchased this year start laying... well there will likely be an abundance of eggs. Depending on the amount of eggs, I'll likely put up a sign at the end of the driveway and sell a few doz when I can to bring in some extra income for things like feed, bedding and other chicken needs.
I see signs all over the place for eggs from backyard chickens. Price is typically $3.00 to $5.50 a doz. Most people claim their eggs are organic, but you cannot do that if you supplement your flock with anything that isn't organic. My flock regularly gets dinner left-overs and those left-overs aren't always 100% organic, so I cannot advertise ORGANIC eggs. I can advertise that the flock is fed a organic, non-GMO feed however, because they are. They also free range on land that is not treated with pesticides or any other type of "cide" for that matter. Additionally, my flock is not on anti-biotics or any other type of medicine. (if you ever treat your flock with any type of medicine or non-organic parasite treatment please wait at least 2 - 3 weeks after treatment is completed before consuming or selling their eggs again)
Selling your extra eggs is also a good way to meet neighbors and make new friends!
That begs the question... what to do with so many extra eggs?
Sell them of course! If you're going to be selling dozens and dozens of eggs, its a good idea to start your own LLC and make sure you're claiming that income. You'll also need to get certified from the state or local government depending on your area's regulations.
If you're only selling a few dozen here or there, consider it a little extra income to help you afford all the feed for your flock. (please consult a CPA regarding tax laws etc)
I have enough extra eggs to give away a few dozen here or there to my lovely neighbors who put up with Cadbury's (my rooster) crowing, but come fall when the 8 new pullets I purchased this year start laying... well there will likely be an abundance of eggs. Depending on the amount of eggs, I'll likely put up a sign at the end of the driveway and sell a few doz when I can to bring in some extra income for things like feed, bedding and other chicken needs.
I see signs all over the place for eggs from backyard chickens. Price is typically $3.00 to $5.50 a doz. Most people claim their eggs are organic, but you cannot do that if you supplement your flock with anything that isn't organic. My flock regularly gets dinner left-overs and those left-overs aren't always 100% organic, so I cannot advertise ORGANIC eggs. I can advertise that the flock is fed a organic, non-GMO feed however, because they are. They also free range on land that is not treated with pesticides or any other type of "cide" for that matter. Additionally, my flock is not on anti-biotics or any other type of medicine. (if you ever treat your flock with any type of medicine or non-organic parasite treatment please wait at least 2 - 3 weeks after treatment is completed before consuming or selling their eggs again)
Selling your extra eggs is also a good way to meet neighbors and make new friends!
Thursday, June 23, 2016
Why Letting Broody Ducks Hatch Chicks Isn't Such A Great Idea
When my 2 Buff Orph ducks decided to go broody at the same time, for the first time, at about 14 mos old I thought.... why not let them hatch a few chicken eggs since I don't have a drake to fertilize their eggs?. Of course I'd seen the warnings about baby chicks drowning in duck ponds so I assured myself that I'd remove the duck pond from their enclosure as soon as the chicks started to hatch. Unfortunately I was in for a surprise, actually a few surprises:
1. Ducks get EXTREMELY loud when they're sitting on a clutch of eggs
2. A duck's quack really does echo (I live in the mtns)
3. Your neighbors will not enjoy the noise, and neither will you
4. Somehow ducks can carry eggs.
To address the first 3 points; the girls decided they were going to "protect" their nest from everything and everyone including me, my dogs, my cat, the chickens, the wind, random squirrels - you get the idea. One duck would sit on the eggs while the other would run around their enclosure quacking constantly. For my small quiet neighborhood in the mountains (and my sanity) this was NOT acceptable, which meant that 75% of the time the ducks had to be locked in their coop where they would settle down and hush up.
Now for the 4th point. This weekend should be hatching time for the few chick eggs that they were sitting on. Yesterday during one of their brief furloughs they were raising a racket even louder than their previous choruses so I went out to make sure there were no predators in the area. After some investigation I found the largest chicken egg in their pond with a drown chick next to it. This chick was a few days from gestation and shouldn't have been out of the shell. Some how the ducks managed to take the egg from the nest, roll or carry it down the ramp from their coop, across their deck, down a 5" step to the ground, across 8 or so feet of bumpy terrain, up onto another deck, up more steps and then into their pond. I can't imagine, other than carrying the egg in their beaks how they would've managed that trip.
After discovering their issue, it took me 15 minutes to catch both of them and deposit them back in the coop to quiet them down and then I had the sad task of burying the baby chick. Of the 3 chicken eggs I'd provided them, they ignored 1 and it was never viable, 1 met the sad fate above and the 3rd is still under them, however I plan on removing it today. I also made the tough decision during this process to re-home my ducks. I can't imagine going through another broody session with them and trying to break them from it. They're adorable and they deserve a home with loads of other ducks where they can be as loud as they want to be. Ducks have many good points; they're typically friendlier than chickens, make very loyal pets, consistently lay wonderful eggs and are amusing to watch. However, there are also challenges to owning ducks and not just the ones above. Ducks are extremely messy, their poop is wet and smelly so its best not to house them with chickens even though I know some people do it successfully. They require constant water so ideally they should have a "pond" to swim and bathe in a year around. I use a large kiddie pool for my 2 ducks, and even with only 2 ducks I have to empty it, scrub it and refill it every 3 days and in the winter this can be a very undesirable chore.
If you've ever considered bringing a few adorable ducklings home, consider first if you have the time, patience, room and ability to care for them. I have no regrets. The last year (I adopted them when they were 8 - 12 wks old) with these girls have been very rewarding and I learned that chickens are my thing. :)
1. Ducks get EXTREMELY loud when they're sitting on a clutch of eggs
2. A duck's quack really does echo (I live in the mtns)
3. Your neighbors will not enjoy the noise, and neither will you
4. Somehow ducks can carry eggs.
To address the first 3 points; the girls decided they were going to "protect" their nest from everything and everyone including me, my dogs, my cat, the chickens, the wind, random squirrels - you get the idea. One duck would sit on the eggs while the other would run around their enclosure quacking constantly. For my small quiet neighborhood in the mountains (and my sanity) this was NOT acceptable, which meant that 75% of the time the ducks had to be locked in their coop where they would settle down and hush up.
Now for the 4th point. This weekend should be hatching time for the few chick eggs that they were sitting on. Yesterday during one of their brief furloughs they were raising a racket even louder than their previous choruses so I went out to make sure there were no predators in the area. After some investigation I found the largest chicken egg in their pond with a drown chick next to it. This chick was a few days from gestation and shouldn't have been out of the shell. Some how the ducks managed to take the egg from the nest, roll or carry it down the ramp from their coop, across their deck, down a 5" step to the ground, across 8 or so feet of bumpy terrain, up onto another deck, up more steps and then into their pond. I can't imagine, other than carrying the egg in their beaks how they would've managed that trip.
After discovering their issue, it took me 15 minutes to catch both of them and deposit them back in the coop to quiet them down and then I had the sad task of burying the baby chick. Of the 3 chicken eggs I'd provided them, they ignored 1 and it was never viable, 1 met the sad fate above and the 3rd is still under them, however I plan on removing it today. I also made the tough decision during this process to re-home my ducks. I can't imagine going through another broody session with them and trying to break them from it. They're adorable and they deserve a home with loads of other ducks where they can be as loud as they want to be. Ducks have many good points; they're typically friendlier than chickens, make very loyal pets, consistently lay wonderful eggs and are amusing to watch. However, there are also challenges to owning ducks and not just the ones above. Ducks are extremely messy, their poop is wet and smelly so its best not to house them with chickens even though I know some people do it successfully. They require constant water so ideally they should have a "pond" to swim and bathe in a year around. I use a large kiddie pool for my 2 ducks, and even with only 2 ducks I have to empty it, scrub it and refill it every 3 days and in the winter this can be a very undesirable chore.
If you've ever considered bringing a few adorable ducklings home, consider first if you have the time, patience, room and ability to care for them. I have no regrets. The last year (I adopted them when they were 8 - 12 wks old) with these girls have been very rewarding and I learned that chickens are my thing. :)
Tuesday, June 14, 2016
Bringing Home Baby Chicks
My how things have changed for me over the last 3 years. I've raised 4 groups of baby chicks and my methods through trail and error have become much more simple. As mentioned in my original post - I was constantly fretting about the first chicks I ever purchased. Always double checking the temperature, always picking them up and poo-pooing over them. The last group of 4 I brought home were already 2 weeks old when I purchased them. They went straight into the grow-out coop with no heat, it was late May so the days were in the 50's and the nights were in the 30s and 40s their first week home. They were fine. They adjusted well and are doing great!
When bringing 1 to 2 day old baby chicks home I keep them in the same brooder I used with my first chicks, but I've modified the sides so instead of them being open (it is an old wire rabbit hutch on legs with wheels - the wire openings on the cage bottom and sides are very thin, maybe 1/2 inch width.) I have wrapped it in plastic so that dirt, poop, food and water cannot be kicked out the sides. I also have moved away from using pine bedding to using Puppy Piddle Pads. These are wonderful! No more mess on the floor, no more pine shavings all over, no more dust!! The bottom of the brooder is the size of 2 and 1/2 piddle pads. I spread them out absorbent side up and hold them in place by tucking the edges through the wire and placing the feed tray and water in strategic areas. This brooder comfortably holds 4 - 6 chicks until they are 4 - 6 wks old. From 1 - 2 days old until 7 - 8 days old I change the piddle pads twice. After they're a week old the pads will need changed every day or two.
For heating I no longer use a heat lamp after the chicks are a week old. I use a heating pad - the one I purchased is to place under seedlings. Since they are already in a warm house - (aprox 70 degrees) the added 10 degrees from the pad is perfect. The pad is 1/2 the size of the brooder and fits under the piddle pads with ease. I've found they only stay on it when they're sleeping.
Additionally the brooder has 3 roosts at various heights.
On warm days (depending on the season) from the time they are 1 week old I'll take the entire brooder, since its easy to move due to the wheels, outdoors in a sunny protected area so the chicks can get fresh air and sunshine. During this time I use a blanket to provide some shade so they can chose shade or sun depending on the temperature. I also fill a medium sized black rubber dog bowl with dirt, sand and small gravel from the yard for them to take dust baths, dig around and use as grit.
Grit, Food, Water and other stuff: I provide chick grit or bits of grit and sand and dirt from my property immediately. They get fresh water daily in a small plastic waterer. I put 1 tsp of Apple Cider Vinegar per gallon of water in their water starting from the day I bring them home, throughout their lifetime. I have always used a non-medicated, 100% organic, non-GMO brand of starter food. They stay on starter for 4 - 6 weeks and then they're switched to an organic, non-GMO grower food, they will stay on the grower until they're 5 - 6 mos old. My chicks diets are supplemented with tiny pieces of fresh herbs, meal worms (dried and live), tiny bits of green leaf lettuce and if there is grass growing outside, small bits of grass and dandelions.
Move em' Out - if the temperatures are consistently over 45 - 50 degrees during the day the chicks are moved out into the grow-out coop at 6 weeks of age with no supplemental heat. If the weather is still cold they will move to the grow-out coop with the heating pad until it is warmer outside. The grow-out coop is in the main coop. They are fenced off from the other chickens but they can all see and hear each other. After 3 to 4 weeks in the grow out coop they are allowed outside to free range (in a fenced in 1/3 acre) with the flock, on that day I remove the fencing and give the entire flock access to the entire coop. I've never had an issue with aggression using this method. Sometimes they'll make the decision on their own. My most recent group of Easter Egger chicks decided to fly out of the grow-out pen earlier than I was planning and integrate themselves on their own.
The methods I use work well for me but that doesn't necessary mean they'd work well for everyone depending on your home and coop set-up. Raising chickens is a lot like parenting, go with your gut and use whatever methods work best for you and your flock.
When bringing 1 to 2 day old baby chicks home I keep them in the same brooder I used with my first chicks, but I've modified the sides so instead of them being open (it is an old wire rabbit hutch on legs with wheels - the wire openings on the cage bottom and sides are very thin, maybe 1/2 inch width.) I have wrapped it in plastic so that dirt, poop, food and water cannot be kicked out the sides. I also have moved away from using pine bedding to using Puppy Piddle Pads. These are wonderful! No more mess on the floor, no more pine shavings all over, no more dust!! The bottom of the brooder is the size of 2 and 1/2 piddle pads. I spread them out absorbent side up and hold them in place by tucking the edges through the wire and placing the feed tray and water in strategic areas. This brooder comfortably holds 4 - 6 chicks until they are 4 - 6 wks old. From 1 - 2 days old until 7 - 8 days old I change the piddle pads twice. After they're a week old the pads will need changed every day or two.
For heating I no longer use a heat lamp after the chicks are a week old. I use a heating pad - the one I purchased is to place under seedlings. Since they are already in a warm house - (aprox 70 degrees) the added 10 degrees from the pad is perfect. The pad is 1/2 the size of the brooder and fits under the piddle pads with ease. I've found they only stay on it when they're sleeping.
Additionally the brooder has 3 roosts at various heights.
On warm days (depending on the season) from the time they are 1 week old I'll take the entire brooder, since its easy to move due to the wheels, outdoors in a sunny protected area so the chicks can get fresh air and sunshine. During this time I use a blanket to provide some shade so they can chose shade or sun depending on the temperature. I also fill a medium sized black rubber dog bowl with dirt, sand and small gravel from the yard for them to take dust baths, dig around and use as grit.
Grit, Food, Water and other stuff: I provide chick grit or bits of grit and sand and dirt from my property immediately. They get fresh water daily in a small plastic waterer. I put 1 tsp of Apple Cider Vinegar per gallon of water in their water starting from the day I bring them home, throughout their lifetime. I have always used a non-medicated, 100% organic, non-GMO brand of starter food. They stay on starter for 4 - 6 weeks and then they're switched to an organic, non-GMO grower food, they will stay on the grower until they're 5 - 6 mos old. My chicks diets are supplemented with tiny pieces of fresh herbs, meal worms (dried and live), tiny bits of green leaf lettuce and if there is grass growing outside, small bits of grass and dandelions.
Move em' Out - if the temperatures are consistently over 45 - 50 degrees during the day the chicks are moved out into the grow-out coop at 6 weeks of age with no supplemental heat. If the weather is still cold they will move to the grow-out coop with the heating pad until it is warmer outside. The grow-out coop is in the main coop. They are fenced off from the other chickens but they can all see and hear each other. After 3 to 4 weeks in the grow out coop they are allowed outside to free range (in a fenced in 1/3 acre) with the flock, on that day I remove the fencing and give the entire flock access to the entire coop. I've never had an issue with aggression using this method. Sometimes they'll make the decision on their own. My most recent group of Easter Egger chicks decided to fly out of the grow-out pen earlier than I was planning and integrate themselves on their own.
The methods I use work well for me but that doesn't necessary mean they'd work well for everyone depending on your home and coop set-up. Raising chickens is a lot like parenting, go with your gut and use whatever methods work best for you and your flock.
Ducks? Sure why not??? OR ... What Was I Thinking?!
A year ago this time I was scanning my facebook feed when I noticed a local page had a post about a duck. "Is this your duck?" it said, with a picture of a blonde colored duck huddled on someone's deck. I followed the thread of comments, none claiming the duck, mostly just what to do about it. It was clearly a young domestic duck. For some reason, what I'm now claiming was temporary insanity I commented that I was close by, had a flock of chickens and I'd be happy to take the duck. Less than 30 minutes later and armed with the information that the original owner had stepped up only to admit they didn't want the duck anymore, I was headed through a torrential downpour into the local town to pick up my new flock member.
Ducky, as she was so "originally" named after that adorable Land Before Time movie... sat quietly in the crate on the way home. She was friendly and curious and admittedly I knew nothing about ducks, besides they need water, like to swim and they quack. I brought her in the house nestled the crate next to the dryer in my laundry room, provided her with some chicken feed and fresh water which she promptly inhaled like a person coming off a 3 day fast and I went and started researching duck care.
Things I learned in the next few hours of reading:
Ducks need a constant source of fresh water not only to swim in but to help them get their food down and also to keep their bills and nostrils clean.
Ducks don't like to be alone. Having 1 duck is a bad idea, at the very least you should have 2 ducks.
Ducks are often friendlier and make better "pets" than chickens.
Ducks can be messy and while they can be housed with chickens, its better if they aren't.
Ducky is a Buff Orphington duck that is likely around 5 or so months old. Pertaining to her sex? Hard tellin'
Ducks can eat the same food my chickens eat (which is organic layer) and they can also have fresh fruit, crushed egg or oyster shells, grass another other things they forage from the yard and meal worms are a favorite treat.
I slowly introduced Ducky over the next few days to the flock and unfortunately it was not love at first sight, or second site or any site after that. She didn't like the chickens, the rooster kept trying to mount her. Not an overwhelming success... so I created a separate space in the coop for her, a run in the yard that was all her own and went about figuring out how I was going to get her a friend. The end of her 2nd week with me I went to a livestock swap about 30 minutes from home. I came early and wandered around all the different crates and cars and tents and didn't find a single duck. I'd given up and was heading back to my car as a Subaru wagon was pulling in... as the car passed I noticed all these little duck heads sticking up in the back. I turned around and approached the people as they were unloading their animals. There was a crate of ducks of all shapes and colors and sizes and in that crate was a Ducky look-alike. The woman guaranteed the duck was a female and was about 5 or 6 mos old. I exchanged a $10 for my new duck, gently placed her in the same crate that Ducky rode home in and started back up the mountain with "Daisy" quietly riding in the back. When I got home I gave Daisy a good once-over which I absolutely should've done PRIOR to purchasing her - fortunately she was 100% healthy and pest free and I immediately introduced her to Ducky. This was love at first sight... they head bobbed, they talked, they head bobbed some more, they nuzzled and then they hopped into the baby pool and had a swim.
Its been a year now since Ducky & Daisy were added to my little homestead. Ducky is broody so Daisy has decided to join her in sitting on some eggs - which happen to be 3 infertile duck eggs and 2 fertile chicken eggs - we'll see what happens.
What I've learned in the last year:
Ducks are MESSY! They absolutely are better off in their own coop (which I built and moved them too a few months ago).
Female ducks are NOISY - maybe not every breed but my girls definitely are. They quack like crazy when they see me. Typically that was the only time (morning when they get let out, when they see me and evening lock up) however, now that they've decided to sit on eggs they are NOISY ALL THE TIME. Constantly warning me, the chickens, my dogs, the cat and whoever else they consider a threat to STAY AWAY. I wont allow them to sit on eggs again.
Ducks love watermelon, or any other type of melon, grass, meal worms (alive and dried), and they need grit and calcium just like hens. Duck feed is best but when you can't get it, a good chicken layer food will be fine.
Ducks need A LOT of water. My girls have a little bit of water in their coop to keep their beaks clean and help swallow their food and a large kiddie pool in their enclosure.
Duck water has to be clean!! Since ducks need water all year around you must come up with a way to keep it clean and keep it from freezing. I added a small electric trough water warmer to the kiddie pool and it kept the water from freezing all winter and it can get to -20 at night where I live. Regardless of the season the water in the kiddie pool needed to be changed every 3 - 4 days for just 2 ducks. Easy access to a fresh water source is imperative. Fresh water in the coop is necessary daily.
The kiddie pool will get gross and will grow algae, so a good scrubbing with a little bit of bleach every month is important.
Ducks are cold hardy, even more so than chickens due to their thick down under coating. I've never lost a chicken to the cold but the ducks are more apt to want to go outside even in the coldest weather. Their feet do get cold and can get frost bite so use caution in the winter months.
Most domestic ducks cannot fly - so they are at constant risk from predators as they have no real defense. They should be kept in safe enclosures. Leaving them outside 24/7 should be avoided at all costs.
Ducks are super friendly and fun to have around (except when they're broody). If I am being honest though, I will never own another duck. While they're adorable and their eggs are great for baking and eating and higher in Omega 3s than chicken eggs, ducks are a TON of work and I wouldn't go into this venture light heartedly. As I was later to find out when Ducky's original owner contacted me online - the woman stated that her husband had decided to bring 2 ducklings home to their kids before Easter as a gift. As the ducks started to get bigger they had to be moved outside but since these people had done no research they didn't know how to care for the ducks, raise them or house them. Once the ducks looked mature around 4 - 5 mos they put them outside... to fend for themselves... thinking the ducks would probably "rather be wild"?!?! They didn't even realize the ducks couldn't fly. One duck was taken by a predator and Ducky eventually wandered to a neighbor's deck for protection and probably in hopes of a good meal. Ducks are not an "easy" pet. They require a ton of work and effort. Please don't be like these folks. Do your research before you invest in any animal.
Ducky, as she was so "originally" named after that adorable Land Before Time movie... sat quietly in the crate on the way home. She was friendly and curious and admittedly I knew nothing about ducks, besides they need water, like to swim and they quack. I brought her in the house nestled the crate next to the dryer in my laundry room, provided her with some chicken feed and fresh water which she promptly inhaled like a person coming off a 3 day fast and I went and started researching duck care.
Things I learned in the next few hours of reading:
Ducks need a constant source of fresh water not only to swim in but to help them get their food down and also to keep their bills and nostrils clean.
Ducks don't like to be alone. Having 1 duck is a bad idea, at the very least you should have 2 ducks.
Ducks are often friendlier and make better "pets" than chickens.
Ducks can be messy and while they can be housed with chickens, its better if they aren't.
Ducky is a Buff Orphington duck that is likely around 5 or so months old. Pertaining to her sex? Hard tellin'
Ducks can eat the same food my chickens eat (which is organic layer) and they can also have fresh fruit, crushed egg or oyster shells, grass another other things they forage from the yard and meal worms are a favorite treat.
I slowly introduced Ducky over the next few days to the flock and unfortunately it was not love at first sight, or second site or any site after that. She didn't like the chickens, the rooster kept trying to mount her. Not an overwhelming success... so I created a separate space in the coop for her, a run in the yard that was all her own and went about figuring out how I was going to get her a friend. The end of her 2nd week with me I went to a livestock swap about 30 minutes from home. I came early and wandered around all the different crates and cars and tents and didn't find a single duck. I'd given up and was heading back to my car as a Subaru wagon was pulling in... as the car passed I noticed all these little duck heads sticking up in the back. I turned around and approached the people as they were unloading their animals. There was a crate of ducks of all shapes and colors and sizes and in that crate was a Ducky look-alike. The woman guaranteed the duck was a female and was about 5 or 6 mos old. I exchanged a $10 for my new duck, gently placed her in the same crate that Ducky rode home in and started back up the mountain with "Daisy" quietly riding in the back. When I got home I gave Daisy a good once-over which I absolutely should've done PRIOR to purchasing her - fortunately she was 100% healthy and pest free and I immediately introduced her to Ducky. This was love at first sight... they head bobbed, they talked, they head bobbed some more, they nuzzled and then they hopped into the baby pool and had a swim.
Its been a year now since Ducky & Daisy were added to my little homestead. Ducky is broody so Daisy has decided to join her in sitting on some eggs - which happen to be 3 infertile duck eggs and 2 fertile chicken eggs - we'll see what happens.
What I've learned in the last year:
Ducks are MESSY! They absolutely are better off in their own coop (which I built and moved them too a few months ago).
Female ducks are NOISY - maybe not every breed but my girls definitely are. They quack like crazy when they see me. Typically that was the only time (morning when they get let out, when they see me and evening lock up) however, now that they've decided to sit on eggs they are NOISY ALL THE TIME. Constantly warning me, the chickens, my dogs, the cat and whoever else they consider a threat to STAY AWAY. I wont allow them to sit on eggs again.
Ducks love watermelon, or any other type of melon, grass, meal worms (alive and dried), and they need grit and calcium just like hens. Duck feed is best but when you can't get it, a good chicken layer food will be fine.
Ducks need A LOT of water. My girls have a little bit of water in their coop to keep their beaks clean and help swallow their food and a large kiddie pool in their enclosure.
Duck water has to be clean!! Since ducks need water all year around you must come up with a way to keep it clean and keep it from freezing. I added a small electric trough water warmer to the kiddie pool and it kept the water from freezing all winter and it can get to -20 at night where I live. Regardless of the season the water in the kiddie pool needed to be changed every 3 - 4 days for just 2 ducks. Easy access to a fresh water source is imperative. Fresh water in the coop is necessary daily.
The kiddie pool will get gross and will grow algae, so a good scrubbing with a little bit of bleach every month is important.
Ducks are cold hardy, even more so than chickens due to their thick down under coating. I've never lost a chicken to the cold but the ducks are more apt to want to go outside even in the coldest weather. Their feet do get cold and can get frost bite so use caution in the winter months.
Most domestic ducks cannot fly - so they are at constant risk from predators as they have no real defense. They should be kept in safe enclosures. Leaving them outside 24/7 should be avoided at all costs.
Ducks are super friendly and fun to have around (except when they're broody). If I am being honest though, I will never own another duck. While they're adorable and their eggs are great for baking and eating and higher in Omega 3s than chicken eggs, ducks are a TON of work and I wouldn't go into this venture light heartedly. As I was later to find out when Ducky's original owner contacted me online - the woman stated that her husband had decided to bring 2 ducklings home to their kids before Easter as a gift. As the ducks started to get bigger they had to be moved outside but since these people had done no research they didn't know how to care for the ducks, raise them or house them. Once the ducks looked mature around 4 - 5 mos they put them outside... to fend for themselves... thinking the ducks would probably "rather be wild"?!?! They didn't even realize the ducks couldn't fly. One duck was taken by a predator and Ducky eventually wandered to a neighbor's deck for protection and probably in hopes of a good meal. Ducks are not an "easy" pet. They require a ton of work and effort. Please don't be like these folks. Do your research before you invest in any animal.
Wednesday, June 8, 2016
Getting Started Or Why I Got Into This Crazy Adventure
A few years ago I moved to an acre of property in the Rocky Mountains. I was ecstatic! After 4+ years in Florida I was ready for a break from the heat. Born in raised in NW Ohio, I thought after my children were grown I'd seen the last flake of snow I ever did care to see, until... I realized I missed the change of seasons, I just didn't miss the rainy, crappy, depressing winters of the Midwest. Lucky for me 2 of my 3 children had already relocated to Colorado so I strapped a "Go West Young Woman" sign onto a U-Haul and made the trek across the country to bluer skies and wider spaces.
Since I arrived in September and winter pretty much starts in October up here, I spent my first winter dreaming of the things I'd do to the property in the spring (whenever that may arrive - which turned out to be the following June). One of my most anticipated adventures was starting a flock of chickens. During the winter I poured over breeds, coop designs, care and maintenance, organic feeds and the list goes on. One of the most helpful books was "Fresh Eggs Daily" - if you're considering chickens or even if you already have them, this book is easy to read and full of great information.
When March rolled around and it was time to pick up baby chicks, winter wasn't even close to being over so I set up a brooder in my laundry room - which is the only room in my 736 sq ft cabin that made sense. The coop, which was a large pre-existing hand build shed was not safe or ready for baby chicks. My brooder was basically an old metal rabbit cage that was lifted via attached legs about 2 ft off the ground, it had both a top that opened and a front door for easy access and was on wheels which made it easy to move and clean under. I purchased a heat lamp, pine bedding, a plastic waterer, a metal feeding tray, organic starter food, installed a couple of low (but movable) wood perches and waited on pins and needles until the local feed store's chick order arrived in mid-March.
I had settled on 2 Easter Eggers, 2 Buff Orphingtons and 2 Silver Laced Wyandottes. When the time came to pick up my new babies, I snuggled their adorable little fluffy bodies into a small box, tucked the box under my coat, jumped back into my already warm jeep and brought them home to their new pampered life in my laundry room. I was anal about the temperature in the brooder, I was checking on them every 30 minutes. I held them constantly and fretted that they weren't getting what they needed. That seems like ages ago - my method of raising chicks has changed dramatically over the last 3 years and I'll cover that in later posts.
From my original flock I have 1 hen left - Harriet, named after my mother, God rest her soul. 2 of the chicks turned out to be Roosters. 1 was re-homed, the other took a trip to freezer camp. Its ok, he was an asshole. Of the remaining 4: An Easter Egger (Sweetie), a Buff Orphington (Eva) and both Silver Laced Wyandottes (Harriet & Lola), I eventually gave Sweetie away since she wasn't much of a layer, sadly Eva was never really healthy and passed at about 18 mos old due to being egg bound, (there will be more on illnesses and health issues in another post) and not so long ago Lola died in front of me from what appeared to be a heart attack. I was crushed. She was a wonderful girl.
At the moment I have 18 chickens however, that number will decrease by 4 or so as I re-home the roosters that are growing out with the new groups from this Jan, April & May.
The current flock consists of: 1 Main Rooster - Chocolate Orphington, 1 Silver Laced Wyandotte hen, 2 Wellsummer hens, 1 Dominque hen, 1 Barred Rock hen, 2 Golden Laced Wyandottes pullets, 2 Speckled Sussex cockerels, 3 Light Brahmas (believe 1 is a cockerel), 5 Easter Eggers (2 pullets and the jury is still out on the other 3) - I don't think I missed anyone - well except for my 2 ducks but they're a story for another time.
This blog will cover feeding, watering, coop design, raising chicks and a whole host of other fun or not so fun information. The only thing I wont do is answer health questions or post about care for various diseases or health issues. That is something only a vet should discuss. I might post about various methods I use but I am in no way indorsing their use or suggesting that you use the methods you read here, always consult a veterinarian.
Terminology: Hen (Adult Female) Rooster (Adult Male) Cockerel (Juvenile Male) Pullet (Juvenile Female) Chick (a baby chicken before the are completely feathered)
Since I arrived in September and winter pretty much starts in October up here, I spent my first winter dreaming of the things I'd do to the property in the spring (whenever that may arrive - which turned out to be the following June). One of my most anticipated adventures was starting a flock of chickens. During the winter I poured over breeds, coop designs, care and maintenance, organic feeds and the list goes on. One of the most helpful books was "Fresh Eggs Daily" - if you're considering chickens or even if you already have them, this book is easy to read and full of great information.
When March rolled around and it was time to pick up baby chicks, winter wasn't even close to being over so I set up a brooder in my laundry room - which is the only room in my 736 sq ft cabin that made sense. The coop, which was a large pre-existing hand build shed was not safe or ready for baby chicks. My brooder was basically an old metal rabbit cage that was lifted via attached legs about 2 ft off the ground, it had both a top that opened and a front door for easy access and was on wheels which made it easy to move and clean under. I purchased a heat lamp, pine bedding, a plastic waterer, a metal feeding tray, organic starter food, installed a couple of low (but movable) wood perches and waited on pins and needles until the local feed store's chick order arrived in mid-March.
I had settled on 2 Easter Eggers, 2 Buff Orphingtons and 2 Silver Laced Wyandottes. When the time came to pick up my new babies, I snuggled their adorable little fluffy bodies into a small box, tucked the box under my coat, jumped back into my already warm jeep and brought them home to their new pampered life in my laundry room. I was anal about the temperature in the brooder, I was checking on them every 30 minutes. I held them constantly and fretted that they weren't getting what they needed. That seems like ages ago - my method of raising chicks has changed dramatically over the last 3 years and I'll cover that in later posts.
From my original flock I have 1 hen left - Harriet, named after my mother, God rest her soul. 2 of the chicks turned out to be Roosters. 1 was re-homed, the other took a trip to freezer camp. Its ok, he was an asshole. Of the remaining 4: An Easter Egger (Sweetie), a Buff Orphington (Eva) and both Silver Laced Wyandottes (Harriet & Lola), I eventually gave Sweetie away since she wasn't much of a layer, sadly Eva was never really healthy and passed at about 18 mos old due to being egg bound, (there will be more on illnesses and health issues in another post) and not so long ago Lola died in front of me from what appeared to be a heart attack. I was crushed. She was a wonderful girl.
At the moment I have 18 chickens however, that number will decrease by 4 or so as I re-home the roosters that are growing out with the new groups from this Jan, April & May.
The current flock consists of: 1 Main Rooster - Chocolate Orphington, 1 Silver Laced Wyandotte hen, 2 Wellsummer hens, 1 Dominque hen, 1 Barred Rock hen, 2 Golden Laced Wyandottes pullets, 2 Speckled Sussex cockerels, 3 Light Brahmas (believe 1 is a cockerel), 5 Easter Eggers (2 pullets and the jury is still out on the other 3) - I don't think I missed anyone - well except for my 2 ducks but they're a story for another time.
This blog will cover feeding, watering, coop design, raising chicks and a whole host of other fun or not so fun information. The only thing I wont do is answer health questions or post about care for various diseases or health issues. That is something only a vet should discuss. I might post about various methods I use but I am in no way indorsing their use or suggesting that you use the methods you read here, always consult a veterinarian.
Terminology: Hen (Adult Female) Rooster (Adult Male) Cockerel (Juvenile Male) Pullet (Juvenile Female) Chick (a baby chicken before the are completely feathered)
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